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Timing light hook up, mgb ignition timing

I guess maybe if i bought a comp cam or lunai or somitng i would of. This is the timing setting that your engine will see at idle.

These events are a major part of what's called reversion. Adjustable units are available from the aftermarket and can be tuned to operate with a large cam in an engine that cruises on small throttle opening and low RPMs. Since the burn speed is directly related to the mixture density, when the density is low an advance needs to be applied to get the mixture burnt at the optimum point of piston position in the time allowed by the RPMs.

There are reasons why large cammed engines need high compression and lots of ignition advance.

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While happening in milli-seconds it is by no means instant and many factors will affect the qualities of the burn. Set the base timing to 10 degrees advanced and install a vacuum can on the distributor that has about 8 degrees of distributor 16 degrees of crank advance that is fully in below the vacuum reading you got when adjusting the initial timing.

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Now reconect the vacuum advance and go for a drive if with heavy springs in the mechanical advance you get spark knock on acceleration or under load install heavier springs if no spark knock is present you can use lighter springs to bring in more timing at cruise speeds to improve gas mileage.

An engine has two compression ratios we need to be concerned about.

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Results 26 degrees at idle initial plus vacuum 46 to 48 degrees at cruise initial plus vacuum plus mechanical 34 degrees at Wide open throttle initial plus Mechanical Timing light hook up luck.

Radically cammed engines pose a tuning issue with vacuum advances as units made for grocer getter cars tend not to adjustable, these depend a lot vacuum to operate and a big cam isn't making the necessary vacuum so these units become ineffective for our purposes.

The method to find this magic number is to do the following.

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These cam timing events at low speed allow the exhaust pressure to blow the intake charge back out the carb and to let the rising piston do the same. This would mean you would have a vacuum can that has 8 degrees of advance all in at say 8 inches of vacuum.

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The final step in setting up the timing is to adjust the weights Cut and paste dating message springs in the mechanical advance. There is a phenomena that occurs where as the mixture density goes up so does the speed of the burn.

That much lift on a flat tappet cam if its a roller everything changes is going to have about to duration at. In gaseous form these materials expand to fill the available space of the container they're in.

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These events give rise to the staccato exhaust sound of an engine with a radical cam in it. Because the burn speed increases with mixture density, it turns out that for the most part above RPMs the mixture burn speed naturally increases at a rate sufficient to be continuously optimal as the RPMs raise Timing light hook up 3 grand.

That being said lets talk about timing.

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In simple terms a normal car cruises at high speeds using low RPMs and not much throttle opening. This then requires methods of applying a spark advance, usually for RPMs below I guess the place to start is the time available for the burn to happen most effectively.

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This assumes that engine RPMs will increase as the throttle is opened and the centrifugal system will advance the spark. Lets deal with total timing first Total timing for a sbc is almost always optimum at somewhere between 34 to 38 degrees of total advance. Lets say you got 26 degrees, we all know the starter will not turn the engine over at 26 degrees of initial timing when the engine is hot so what do we do?

These are the same constraints everywhere which is why you see so much commonality in tune up specs across engines of different manufacturers.