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Castle Hill is very important to Maori. The limestone beds here are not cream, but grey, coloured by ash from primordial eruptions.

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Castle Hill basin lies 90 kilometres north-west of Christchurch, in the eastern section of the Southern Alps. I am clinging to the limestone, awkward and spreadeagled, like some pathetic insect. Only two of the shelters that bear rock art show signs of occupation in their floors, and no midden remains are known from the vicinity.

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On a less lofty plane, lime is still taken from the area for agricultural use. I can neither retreat nor advance. He foresaw a huge increase in demand for recreational facilities in the South Island, and decided that what was needed was a mega-resort—on his land.

Only two mountain totara remain in the whole area—very distorted specimens perched atop boulders at Gorge Hill. Radiocarbon-dated to the 15th or 16th century, the pack has a circular wooden frame, over which a large drawstring bag is fitted.

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It was never rebuilt. It is the snow that draws many here, and Castle Hill is close to five skifields.

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Nearby, a man-sized boulder has been cleanly sawn, and on its cut face are autographs from days of yore. McCaskill, a university lecturer in Christchurch, was determined to protect the plant, and took a carload of students to help him erect a stock-proof fence around the area several years before the reserve was gazetted.

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I worked my way into this precarious situation through some deft footwork and a lunge based more on faith than skill. The victim, known only as Jem, was unearthed from the bed of Cave Stream.

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However, Reid had his fingers burned in the stockmarket crash, and the vision—just starting to take form as sections were sold and building commenced—foundered.

He recently obtained a concession to run a canyoning, rockclimbing and caving operation in nearby Arthurs Pass National Park.

The rocks of Castle Hill

Most were found, and some new ones showed up. Here and there, jutting outcrops of rock spike the grassy hillsides, but none of them are as impressive as the strange jumbles that litter the Castle Hill area.

Driving up the Porter Heights skifield road, I try to recollect his words: